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Articles by Adam Wright

Adam has been a professional meteorologist and surf forecaster since 1999 and has worked for many of the popular surf sites including Transworld SURF, Surfline, Wavewatch, and FuelTV. Currently he is the Chief Forecaster for Solspot.com and is responsible for letting us know when we should ditch the computers for either a quick session or epic trip.

New NW swell moves in more on Friday but expect more shadowing issues and inconsistent sets

New NW swell moves in more on Friday but expect more shadowing issues and inconsistent sets

A new, steep NW swell moves in on Friday, adding some bigger surf to a few select spots while the other lesser exposed breaks see rideable but small waves. Weather and winds will help make it an excellent beach day but the finicky nature of the swell will hamper surf shape and size for many of our beaches.

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Run of overlapping NW swells on tap through the end of 2013 and into early 2014

Run of overlapping NW swells on tap through the end of 2013 and into early 2014

Over the next several days we are going to see a decent set of NW swells that will hold playful waves at the exposed spots through the weekend and into early next week. These swells will have a lot of similar characteristics to the swell that hit before Christmas…long swell periods, inconsistent sets, and a healthy level of shadowing from our local islands and coastal features that will work hard to knock down the size if your spot isn’t one of the lucky winter breaks. Fortunately even with the swells’ issues there will still be enough energy to keep some sort of rideable surf showing at most of the WNW-NW facing spots AND we will have some incredibly nice weather and decent winds that will help make hanging out at the beach even more appealing.

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Leftover NW swell lingers through Christmas Morning

Leftover NW swell lingers through Christmas Morning

Christmas Day will have rideable surf and clean conditions…but the swell mix will be on the way down so we can expect fairly small surf at the average spots and only slightly better waves at the standouts.

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Longboard waves trickle in from the South Pacific as we move through the week

Longboard waves trickle in from the South Pacific as we move through the week

We will have a rideable, but overall pretty small, series of S-SW pulses moving in over the next week. Long-range charts don’t show much improvement…but they don’t really get worse either. Looks like we can count on some longboard sized surf to stick around as we start to head into 2014.

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WNW-NW swell sticks around through early Tuesday before slowly fading out.

WNW-NW swell sticks around through early Tuesday before slowly fading out.

Tuesday will be fun, even playful in a few spots. The WNW-NW’er, (while not as good as it was forecast to be), will still hold through the morning, showing best at the true NW facing spots.

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WNW-NW swell sticks around for a couple of days with another setting up later this week

WNW-NW swell sticks around for a couple of days with another setting up later this week

Our current WNW-NW swell will hold through Tuesday morning and then slowly fade through the middle of the week. The NPAC has another storm forming to the east of Japan today that will have some new NW swell arriving with long-period energy by Thursday…but not really peaking until we head into the weekend. Unfortunately the NPAC isn’t quite producing as much swell as previous forecasts thought it would…so while we can still count on getting some rideable, even fun, surf over the holiday break…I am going to downsize the overall wave heights, which is a bit of a bummer since there isn’t really anything else out there to help compensate for the now weaker WNW-NW swells.

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WNW-NW’er filling in…expect it to peak for most exposed spots throughout Monday

WNW-NW’er filling in…expect it to peak for most exposed spots throughout Monday

Our new swell is already starting to show some energy on the buoys (and a few beaches) this afternoon…however it looks like the WNW-NW swell won’t really start to fill in until after sundown tonight…so most beaches will see the biggest waves from this swell on Monday.

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New WNW-NW swell slowly fills in throughout the day on Sunday.

New WNW-NW swell slowly fills in throughout the day on Sunday.

Sunday looks like a decent surf day (for the good NW facing spots) thanks to the arrival of new WNW-NW swell and cleaner conditions.

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WNW-NW energy backs down while S swell sticks around and winds stay clean

WNW-NW energy backs down while S swell sticks around and winds stay clean

Saturday will be a playful surf day…though it will be a touch smaller as the swell energy from the last cold front trails off leaving us with leftovers and a little bit of Southern Hemi swell. Conditions look nice with sunny skies and light offshore winds.

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Better weather and some stacked up long-period WNW-NW swells setting up for next week

Better weather and some stacked up long-period WNW-NW swells setting up for next week

The current storm we had mucking up Thursday’s conditions will be mostly out of the area on Friday, and its farewell track will help to set up another run of nice weather and offshore winds, which will settle in over the weekend and into early next week. Friday, while still a bit cool, will see fairly clean conditions…clean enough that we will be able to pick off some of the leftover stormswell that will hang around for the next couple of days. A small S-swell will hold in the background, keeping exposed beaches in weaker but still rideable waves and adding a little peakier shape to the better combo spots. As we move into next week a solid long-period WNW-NW swell will fill in fast on Monday and then stick around for a few days, which will do some nice things to our winter spots as we move through the holidays. Long-range charts have another strong looking storm pulling together that has the potential to send more NW swell our way for after Christmas.

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