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Articles by Adam Wright

Adam has been a professional meteorologist and surf forecaster since 1999 and has worked for many of the popular surf sites including Transworld SURF, Surfline, Wavewatch, and FuelTV. Currently he is the Chief Forecaster for Solspot.com and is responsible for letting us know when we should ditch the computers for either a quick session or epic trip.

Solid late season SSW-SW swell peaks through the week with a couple more playful swells setting up out the back

Solid late season SSW-SW swell peaks through the week with a couple more playful swells setting up out the back

New long-period SSW-SW swell starts to move in fast on Wednesday, building through the day and eventually peaking late Thursday into Friday morning before very slowly backing off as we move into next week. This is a pretty decent sized pulse of swell that we have rolling in over the next few days, particularly since we are starting to move deeper into the Fall season. Long-range forecast charts aren’t looking quite as good as they did last week, however there are still a couple of storms moving through our swell window that will help tack on some smaller, more playful sized swells onto the tail end of our bigger pulse. The tropics are threatening to spin up another depression near Southern Mexico that may end up becoming our next tropical storm later this week…not sure how much of a wave maker it may end up turning into, but we have plenty of Southern Hemi swell to worry about at this point, so any extra swell will just be frosting on an already good-sized surf cake.

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Slowly building SSW-SW swells help to add size on Wednesday but our tides keeps the shape on the soft side

Slowly building SSW-SW swells help to add size on Wednesday but our tides keeps the shape on the soft side

Wave heights at the SSW-SW facing spots and excellent combo breaks will slowly build on Wednesday. We already have one new swell in the water and another that is lined up to fill in a bit more as we move through the day. Conditions look clean in the morning …though the tide will keep the shape a little slow at the more sensitive spots.

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New SSW-SW swells begin to fill in midweek and strengthen over the weekend

New SSW-SW swells begin to fill in midweek and strengthen over the weekend

We will see a few small but playful waves as we move through the next couple days thanks to some leftover windswell and minor tropical energy from (former) Hurricane Rachel. New long-period SW swell will start to show later Tuesday afternoon and then continue to slowly build as we head through the later parts of the week. That isn’t the only swell we have on the way though…a second, bigger and better aimed SSW-SW pulse will be close behind the midweek swell and will have larger more consistent surf mixing in as we head into the upcoming weekend. Further out we continue to see some decent, but not all that impressive activity in the South Pacific as well as a some increasing storm intensity in the North Pacific storm track. Right now it looks like the biggest swell currently in the water will be arriving over this weekend, but with all of the new storms forming in the NPAC, the SPAC, and the Tropics it wouldn’t surprise me to see some better swells forming up as we move further into October.

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Small but playful blend of combo energy shows on Tuesday

Small but playful blend of combo energy shows on Tuesday

Tuesday will see some small but playful surf along with fairly clean morning conditions. Unfortunately there isn’t all that much swell in the water, which will make it more sensitive to both the tides and our coastal winds. Expect a few fun pockets in the morning but plan on the tide swamping things out as we move toward the middle of the day.

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Little boost in tropical S-SSE swell from Rachel mixes with weekend leftovers and cleaner conditions

Little boost in tropical S-SSE swell from Rachel mixes with weekend leftovers and cleaner conditions

Monday’s surf looks like it could be a bit more fun than it probably would have been if Hurricane Rachel didn’t pull together over the last couple of days. Instead of just fading windswell we will see some new tropical swell moving in and mixing with the weekend leftovers. It won’t be huge, but the mix of swell directions, cleaner morning conditions, and decent tides will offer up a few playful little peaks at the exposed spots.

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Winds still a little squirrelly on Sunday but it does clean up for the morning

Winds still a little squirrelly on Sunday but it does clean up for the morning

Sunday will see cleaner conditions but slightly less swell as the dominant WNW-NW windswell begins to back down. The morning looks fairly decent thanks to the lighter winds and the fact that we get slotted into a good part of the tide swing. Expect mostly smaller waves but with a few playful peaks at the standout breaks.

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Our swell mix holds into Saturday but weather stays a bit funky in a few areas

Our swell mix holds into Saturday but weather stays a bit funky in a few areas

We will have a shifting mix of conditions and swells over the upcoming weekend. Saturday will start out a bit on the unstable side with some westerly wind adding texture to the more exposed beaches but still leaving some manageable pockets at a few spots. Sunday looks cleaner but a touch smaller as the winds in the outer waters start to back down.

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Hurricane Marie crushed a lot of our sandbars…how long will it take for them to recover?

Several People Asked: Hey Adam, ever since Hurricane Marie lit up Southern California a lot of sandbars have been trashed. How long will it take for them to recover? How long does it take for a spot to rebuild its sandbars?

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Mix of chunky WNW-NW energy holds into the weekend while next week has bigger SSW-SW swells arriving

Mix of chunky WNW-NW energy holds into the weekend while next week has bigger SSW-SW swells arriving

The blend of WNW-NW swell and more localized NW windswell will continue to generate most of our surf as we move into the weekend. Unfortunately for the summer spots this means mostly small surf for the next couple of days while the more W-NW facing beaches (and the decent combo spots) see bigger more consistent waves. The WNW-NW energy will gradually back down into background NW windswell as we move into the early part of next week…but wave heights won’t stay down for long…a new set of bigger SSW-SW swells will begin to show some long-period forerunners as we head toward the middle of next week with a bigger SSW swell close on their heels. We can expect bigger, more consistent surf for the S-SW facing beaches as we move into the beginning of October and, if the NPAC plays its cards right, we may even see a little beefier WNW-NW energy move in around the same time to add some combo shape.

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Winds continue to be less than stable on Friday but WNW-NW swell continues to roll in waves

Winds continue to be less than stable on Friday but WNW-NW swell continues to roll in waves

More WNW-NW swell arrives on Friday but unfortunately so does more onshore wind. It won’t be a complete mess in the morning…there will be pockets of decent waves at a few of the more protected regions and not all spots will start off with too much wind…however the more exposed beaches and wind sensitive spots will see some early onshore texture that will get progressively worse as we move through the day.

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