A couple large pulses of swell due this week.

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Austin Gendron
(Monday) 1.22.18

Short Range Surf Forecast Overview

Large WNW-NW (285-305) peaks today. Conditions are still a little mixed up but should improve Tuesday as swell drops. The next system is due Wednesday and will bring another round of large medium/long period WNW-NW (285-300) mix. Surf peaks Thursday/Friday and will relax through the upcoming weekend as conditions improve. Read more for details.

To view the details of your local region click on your “Central California Surf Region”

San Francisco | San Mateo | Santa Cruz | Monterey | SLO County

WNW-NW (285-305) swell peaks in the overhead to double overhead+ range along the exposed coast and at standouts today. Conditions are a little wonky thanks to a passing front causing mixed up winds along parts of the coast. In some cases those winds are able to channel offshore, but for most areas its still causing a bit of mixed texture and bump on the surface. Conditions are suppose to improve Tuesday as offshore flow takes over at least for the morning. Onshores could return in the afternoon, adding texture and bump again.

The next round of energy arrives late Tuesday/early Wednesday. It’s going to be a bit smaller though. It’s coming from a storm that generated 40-45 foot seas near Japan last Thursday. The system didn’t make it very far east before falling apart, but the degrading swell should still build to a 3-4 foot peak with 16 to 17 second periods late Wednesday/Thursday. For the exposed coast that should mean head high to well overhead surf at standouts. More averages spots would be running chest to overhead+… There is a caveat though…

The next frontal system is due to start moving through the region Wednesday, bringing some precipitation to the Central California coast through Thrusday morning at least. Prefrontal winds will pick up through the day Wednesday working down the coast, followed by breezy NW winds Thursday. The swell associated with this swell is going to build Wednesday on top of the long-period energy already in the water. Wave heights could build into the overhead to double overhead+ range possibly bigger Thursday and Friday as the swell peaks.

High pressure is supposed to return Friday as the swell starts to back off. Conditions will improve as wave heights ease into the chest high to overhead+ range through the weekend.

Here’s what to expect on a day-to-day basis this week:

Monday the 22nd New long-period W-WNW (270-295) builds overnight and will peak bringing surf in the range of a couple feet overhead to double overhead+ to standouts seeing set waves up to triple overhead at magnets. Conditions vary depending on exposure, worth checking it.

Tuesday the 23rd Conditions are expected to improve as WNW energy eases, and new smaller long period swell starts to fill in late. Wave heights through most o fate day should be running head high to well overhead along the exposed coast.

Wednesday the 24th Surf starts to build again as new long-period energy arrives and NW swell begins to build. Keeping an eye on stormy conditions working their way down the coast through the day.

Thursday the 25th Large swell mix accompanies the passing frontal system. Conditions not looking very good with breezy onshores and large surf in the overhead to double overhead+ range along the exposed coast

Friday the 26th conditions start to improve as swell settles. For many areas surf still expected to be running overhead to double overhead.

Saturday the 27th, conditions improve as WNW-NW swell energy eases into the head high to well overhead+ range.

Sunday the 28th conditions looking pretty light and possibly offshore as surf eases into the chest to overhead+ range along the exposed coast.

Tropical Overview

Nothing in the tropics

Long-Range Surf and Swell Forecast

North Pacific Swell Forecast

Models continue to look pretty sad for the long-range forecast. The storm track is mostly quiet. A weak trough in the Gulf of Alaska could generate some NW energy for the Central California coast early to mid-next week, but it’s not looking all that impressive at the moment.

Will follow up with details and any updates later in the week.

South Pacific Swell Forecast

Minimal swell coming out of the South Pacific at this time.

Next long-range forecast expected for Thursday the 25th.  

Austin Gendron
Surf Forecaster