Large overlapping swells through the weekend and early next week

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Austin Gendron
(Thursday) 4.12.18

Short Range Surf Forecast Overview

The large mix of WNW (285-305) builds Thursday with breezy NW winds on the surface.  The surf peaks Friday, before easing some thought the weekend.  The next round of W-WNW (280-300) arrives Sunday with long-periods.  It will be followed by more wet weather and another round of breezy onshore winds through the start of next week.   Read more for details.

To view the details of your local region click on your “Central California Surf Region”

San Francisco | San Mateo | Santa Cruz | Monterey | SLO County

Surfwise, we’re looking at a messy mix of W-WNW (280-305) swell through the end of the week. Breezy NW winds will be adding shorter period wind swell on top of the medium period energy already in the water. Wave heights are expected to be in the overhead to double overhead+ range along the exposed coast with potential for larger sets in the double overhead+ to triple overhead range at standouts. The surf will start to subside through the weekend as the onshore winds relax a little bit, and possibly allowing conditions to improve, at least in the mornings.

As we look out further towards next week, the next swell is already setting up in the North Pacific. This late season storm is looking pretty powerful, with winds stronger than 50 knots over the fetch. WW3 models are showing 35-40+ foot seas, with a decent trajectory pushing most of the long-period energy towards California. The storm is going to weaken as it passes north of Hawaii, but still continue east towards California. The 19 to 20 second swell is expected to arrive Sunday right before the storm arrives. The result is going to be another large pulse of W-WNW (280-300) swell, likely bringing overhead to double overhead surf to the exposed coast. In addition we’r expecting breezy WNW-NW winds to accompany the swell through at least Monday. The swell mix could calm a bit Tuesday, but another storm could approach next Wednesday, bringing more moderate to plus sized surf and onshore winds.

Here’s what to expect on a day-to-day basis this week:

Thursday the 12th W-WNW swell builds through the day with new long-period energy in the mix. Wave heights could be running overhead to double overhead+, possibly a bit bigger at standouts and magenta. Conditions expected to be breezy onshore still.

Friday the 13th large surf in the well overhead to double maybe even triple overhead range along the exposed coast. Winds are supposed to ease up a little bit compared to Thursday’s onshores.

Saturday the 14th the surf starts to ease into the head high to well overhead range late in the day.

Sunday the 15th, keeping an eye on the next round of onshores and increasing surf again. Likely that wave heights will be running overhead to double overhead along the exposed coast

Monday the 16th breezy onshore and messy overhead to double overhead+ surf along the W-NW facing coastline.

Tuesday the 17th surf starts to ease through the day. Looks like lighter winds int he morning, but likely onshores picking up again in the afternoon.

Wednesday the 18th keeping an eye on the weather/winds, but W-WNW swell eases into the chest to overhead+ range.

Tropical Overview

Nothing in the tropics

Long-Range Surf and Swell Forecast

North Pacific Swell Forecast

The spring like conditions with onshores and mixed WNW-NW swell continue through the second half of next week based on the current models. It’s looking like a follow up storm is due mid week that could generate some localized W-WNW (270-300) swell energy for the California Coast.

As usual it’s still too early to call, but it could mean another moderate to maybe plus sized swell mix for the second half of next week.

South Pacific Swell Forecast

Keeping an eye on new southerly swell due for the end of next week and the following weekend.  Still too early to call, but will have new updates early next week.  Stay tuned.

Next long-range forecast expected for Monday the 16th.  

Austin Gendron
Surf Forecaster