Offshore conditions with fun swell in the water for awhile

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Austin Gendron
(Monday) 12.4.17

Short Range Surf Forecast Overview

Solid WNW-NW (285-305) eases through the first half of the week. We’re expecting another overlapping pulse to arrive late Tuesday and peak Wednesday, backing off again Thursday. Friday we’re looking at a bit of a shift to more westerly swells, with potential for some large surf due mid month.

Just a heads up, I will not be updating the forecast again until the 18th. Sorry for the inconvenience ahead of time. Read more for details.

To view the details of your local region click on your “Central California Surf Region”

San Francisco | San Mateo | Santa Cruz | Monterey | SLO County

The large WNW-NW (285-305) swell in the water is going to ease Monday and Tuesday, backing all the way off to the point where surf is running waist to head high along the exposed coast. Good news is that high pressure is going to mean offshore winds, and decent conditions for a lot of areas.

Late Tuesday we’re expecting the next pulse of WNW-NW energy. It’s going to be a little smaller in size, building to a peak Wednesday with wave heights in the head high to well overhead range. Size is expected to back off somewhat Thursday ahead of the next round of energy arriving that night.

Friday we’re looking at more WNW-NW (280-295). This time from a slightly better angled system that is supposed to dive a bit south as it passes north of Hawaii. This is going to angle the reinforcing energy a bit more W-WNW (270-290) through next weekend.

I mentioned above that high pressure is going to mean offshore conditions… And that’s no joke. The blocking high is going to keep us high and dry with fairly steady offshores. Temperatures are expected to be pretty cool at night, with warm temps during the day. Not very seasonable if you ask me…

Here’s what to expect on a day-to-day basis this week:

Monday the 4th Winds expected to shift offshore again as surf continues to ease into the head high to well overhead range at standouts.

Tuesday the 5th Conditions improve as long-period swell eases into the waist to head high+ range.

Wednesday the 6th another round of WNW-NW swell arriving, bumping the surf up to chest to overhead+ along the exposed coast, possibly up to well overhead at standouts.

Thursday the 7th Surf is supposed to ease a little bit, but still running waist to head high+ with decent conditions.

Friday the 8th new WNW shows up early, helping bring back chest to overhead+ surf along the exposed coast.

Saturday the 9th The swell mix starts to shift more westerly, and could pick up a little bit, with standouts seeing some well overhead sets later in the day.

Sunday the 10th W-WNW swell peaks with head high to well overhead surf at standouts. Conditions still expected to be offshore.

Tropical Overview

Nothing in the tropics

Long-Range Surf and Swell Forecast

North Pacific Swell Forecast

The long-range models are showing a shift in the jet stream pattern through the Central North Pacific.

We’ve still got a blocking high, but a couple of better angled storms are going to kick up some more swell for next week. The first pulse is likely due to arrive late next Monday/Tuesday.

The second system looks super impressive actually. It’s way too early to call, but keep an eye on the models because if this one ends up living up to its current projections, it could mean a large W-WNW (270-290) swell for Central and Southern California mid to late next week.

South Pacific Swell Forecast

Minimal swell coming out of the South Pacific at this time.

Next long-range forecast expected for Monday the 18th.  I’ll be in Costa Rica until then…

Austin Gendron
Surf Forecaster

  • scoobydude

    Update homie!