Wet weather this week, with building swell mix through the end of the week

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Austin Gendron
(Monday) 3.19.18

Short Range Surf Forecast Overview

The week starts off small but fun for the exposed coast.  Tuesday through Friday we’re looking at stormy weather, and an increase in a mix of southerly and WNW-NW wind swell/swell. Read more for details.

To view the details of your local region click on your “Central California Surf Region”

San Francisco | San Mateo | Santa Cruz | Monterey | SLO County

Surf settles a little bit Monday, with continued light conditions for the exposed coast. Standouts should be running waist to head high through the day. Tuesday size is likely to ease through most of the day. We’re expecting the storm to approach, and its going to start generating breezy E-SE winds for much of the coast through the day.

The cut off low is going to approach from the west Tuesday, but it doesn’t look like southerly winds and wind swell are going to arrive until late Tuesday. Conditions are going to depend on exposure to the wind, but it could get pretty stormy Wednesday for some areas. In addition to the rising southerly wind swell and breezy winds, this is looking like a pretty wet week.

The rain is expected to start Tuesday afternoon, and is likely to be pretty heavy at times, with the main target being the Central Coast closer to Pt. Conception were the sub tropical moisture stream sits. The rain is expected to likely be strongest Wednesday, and then linger Thursday and Friday. The the storm starts to settle, we’re going to see a shift in the swell to the WNW-NW (285-310). Surf wise we’re expecting the southerly wind swell to peak in the head high to well overhead range. As the WNW-NW fills in wave heights could boost into the overhead to double overhead+ range. Size starts to ease through the upcoming weekend.

Here’s what to expect on a day-to-day basis this week:

Monday the 19th surf continues to ease as. Conditions should relax some too. Wave heights expected to be running waist to head high.

Tuesday the 20th watching for E-SE winds to pick up through the day. WNW swell eases through the day. Southerly wind swell builds late and increasing chances of rain as storm approaches.

Wednesday the 21st wind swell and wet weather on tap. Surf could be running chest high to overhead+ at southerly exposures, but mixed up and messy.

Thursday the 22nd WNW-NW swell mixes with the and WSW-SW energy in the water. Wave heights expected to be running head high to well overhead.

Friday the 23rd stormy weather conditions shit more typically onshore following the frontal passage. Surf should be running overhead to double overhead+.

Saturday the 24th, the swell mix is expected to start easing through the day. Wave heights expected to be running head high to well overhead high.

Sunday the 25th swell mix expected to continue backing off, into the chest high to overhead high+ range. Conditions could improve as we experience a break in the storms.

Tropical Overview

Nothing in the tropics

Long-Range Surf and Swell Forecast

North Pacific Swell Forecast

The long-range models are looking pretty quiet.  There aren’t any swell makers on the horizon, but it is that time of year where things can rapidly change, so I will keep an eye on the North Pacific and let you know on Thursday how things are shaping up.  Stay tuned.

South Pacific Swell Forecast

Minimal swell coming out of the South Pacific at this time.

Next long-range forecast expected for Thursday the 22nd.  

Austin Gendron
Surf Forecaster