WNW-NW swell picks up again late Monday, as a couple storms work their way down the coast

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Austin Gendron
(Monday) 11.13.17

Short Range Surf Forecast Overview

S-SSW (185-200) eases through the week. We’re expecting more NW energy to return Monday night, and could be somewhat consistent through the end of the work week. Possible weather issues though. Read more for details.

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San Francisco | San Mateo | Santa Cruz | Monterey | SLO County

Wave heights are going to ease more Monday, with standouts running knee to chest high.

The models are showing the long wave trough in the Gulf of Alaska is going to stick around for a few days, while a series of lows rotate through it. That’s going to set up a fairly consistent fetch in the Gulf of Alaska. Surf wise that’s going to mean the WNW-NW (290-315) will pick up and bring head high to well overhead+ surf by Tuesday. Conditions are going to be a little iffy, with variable onshore winds. We’ll have to keep an eye on this though because if the low pressure trough starts to shift at call, it could mean increased onshore.

Weather wise we’re looking at possible rain Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and then another round possible over the upcoming weekend.

The trough moves inland at the end of the week/over the weekend and that will mean cutting of the swell tap. WNW-NW swell energy will ease.

Here’s what to expect on a day-to-day basis this week:

Monday the 13th southern hemi eases. Smaller NW through the first half of the day, but new energy picking up late. Potential for waist to head high+ surf late.

Tuesday the 14th WNW-NW peaks, with wave heights running head high to well overhead+ at standouts.

Wednesday the 15th Conditions improve a little bit, while wave heights hold in the chest to overhead+ range, possibly a couple feet to several feet overhead.

Thursday the 16th Solid head high to well overhead+ surf, but breezy onshore winds adding texture and rain in the forecast could make for tough conditions

Friday the 17th Keep an eye on onshore winds. Wave heights are expected to ease a little bit. Standouts likely to be running chest high to overhead+ range, but conditions could improve depending on the winds.

Saturday the 18th NW swell eases more. Wave heights in the waist to head high+ range.

Sunday the 19th Keeping an eye on the weather as another storm approaches, possibly introducing more wind swell into the mix for some bigger surf.

Tropical Overview

Nothing in the tropics

Long-Range Surf and Swell Forecast

North Pacific Swell Forecast

Long-range models are showing a brief lull in the swell action early next weekend, but then another storm in the Gulf of Alaska is expected to parts itself in swell making mode.  It’s way too early to make a call, but I’ll keep an eye on things and have updates for you later in the week.

South Pacific Swell Forecast

Long-range forecast for the South Pacific is looking mostly quiet.  There could be some very small background energy arriving the week of thanksgiving, but doesn’t look like its going to be all that noticeable.

Next long-range forecast expected for Thursday the 16th. 

Austin Gendron
Surf Forecaster