Fun SSW fades through the week, more due next week

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Austin Gendron
(Monday) 10.9.17

Short Range Surf Forecast Overview

Solid SSW (195-205) that graced Southern California with fun surf over the weekend will continue to slowly fade through midweek.  Smaller background swell from the southern hemisphere will blend in through the second half of the week.  We’re expecting another fun SSW (195-205) pulse due for early next week too.  Read more for details.

Get the live Southern California Buoy Forecast graph here - http://solspot.com/buoy/oceanside-offshore/forecast.

Surfwise the SSW (195-205) continues to bring some small to moderate sized surf to stand out southerly exposures through the start of the week.  There’s also a little bit of NW energy wrapping around Pt. Conception adding some small combo to the mix.

Monday wave heights are running waist to head high at standouts, while more average breaks are in the knee to chest high range.  Size will continue to slowly ease through midweek.  A couple smaller pulses of back ground energy are expected to help maintain knee to waist high+ surf at standouts through the second half of the week and start of the weekend.  Conditions are looking pretty nice as well, with mostly light variable/offshore winds in the mornings, and a light sea breeze in the afternoons.

Here’s what to expect on a day-to-day basis this week:

Monday the 9th onshores continue as southerly exposures see surf easing.  Wave heights expected to be waist to head high

Tuesday the 10th Surf at southerly exposures continues to ease

Wednesday the 11th watching for smaller southerly swell to fill in.

Thursday the 5th surf continues in the smaller knee to waist high range.  Onshore winds could pick up a little bit.

Friday the 6th, small ankle to waist high+ surf for most of Southern California.

Saturday the 7th Surf holds with favorable conditions.

Sunday the 8th Long period forerunners for the next SSW pulse start to fill in.

Tropical Overview

Nothing in the tropics

Long-Range Surf and Swell Forecast

North Pacific Swell Forecast

Long range models are questionable at best. There have been some hints at a potential swell maker coming together in the Gulf of Alaska late in the weekend/early next week. We’ll have to wait and see how that plays out though. Stay tuned.

South Pacific Swell Forecast

I’m still amazed at this past weekend’s swell, not because of how it performed, but because of how late in the season it is, considering we had such a quiet summer. Well it looks like the South Pacific isn’t quite done yet. There are a couple more systems on the horizon.

The first system is going to come together over the next couple days, south of Tahiti. This looks like another well tracked system. It’s aimed almost directly at Southern California, although does flirt with the French Polynesian Island shadow a little bit. Still I think it’s going to provide some solid surf for exposed breaks when it arrives on the 16th from the SSW (195-205) degrees.

The second system looks a little more iffy, with a less ideal storm track that pushes it into the S-SSE (165-180) part of the swell window. That limits it mostly to Southern California and spots that can pick up the steeper swells. I’ll keep an eye on this one and let you know more later in the week.

Next long-range forecast expected for Thursday the 12th. 

Austin Gendron
Surf Forecaster