New long-period S swell for this weekend.

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Austin Gendron
(Thursday) 4.19.18

Short Range Surf Forecast Overview

Breezy W-WNW winds Thursday are going to help drive another bout of wind swell that will peak late and ease Friday.  This weekend we’re expecting a healthy southern hemi swell (180-190) that should bring small to moderate sized surf.  More southern hemi and possibly some long-period WNW and more wind swell due mid-next week.   Read more for details.

Get the live Southern California Buoy Forecast graph here - http://solspot.com/buoy/oceanside-offshore/forecast.

The wind swell event for Thursday is looking like its been downgraded a little bit, or at least pushed back.  Surf is expected to build with the breezy winds still though.  Wave heights are expected to build into the knee high to chest high+ range, and possibly bigger at standouts.  Conditions are supposed to improve for Friday morning making for some potentially fun surf.  The swell mix will ease through the weekend.

A well angled system south of the Pitcairn Islands last week has sent a small to moderate sized pulse of S (180-190) should arrive late Friday, and build to a peak over the weekend. For breaks that can pick up swell from both hemispheres it could mean some fun combo swell through the weekend.  Wave heights are expected to be running waist to head high, possibly bigger at top spots.  Most average breaks should be in the knee to chest high range though.  The surf will slowly settle through the the end of next week.

Here’s what to expect on a day-to-day basis this week:

Thursday the 19th breezy onshore winds producing waist to head high surf, possibly bigger at top exposures.  Conditions not looking very good for most areas.

Friday the 20th W-WNW-NW swell mix lingers, could be looking at better conditions as the storm moves inland.  Southern hemi swell arrives.  Could bring some long-period fore runners in the afternoon/evening

Saturday the 21st easing westerly swell mix could bring knee to chest high+ surf to standouts.  New Southern hemi builds to a peak through the day.  Likely to be running waist to head high, maybe bigger.

Sunday the 22nd Southern hemi swell holds its peak through the day.  expecting light variable winds.

Monday the 23rd southern hemi starts to ease.   Surf should be running knee to chest high+ along at standouts late in the day

Tuesday the 24th southern hemi continues to relax.  Could be some small long-period WNW-NW starting to trickle in.

Wednesday the 25th keeping an eye on increasing wind swell and long-period WNW-NW as well as some new southern hemi.

Tropical Overview

Nothing in the tropics

Long-Range Surf and Swell Forecast

North Pacific Swell Forecast

Early to mid-next week it looks like we will be receiving our next round of WNW-NW (285-300) swell. This time from another Aleutian system. It’s still a few days out, but its showing 25-30+ foot seas. The angle isn’t too bad, so it could end up sending a pretty consistent pulse of swell. As of right now, initial 17 to 18 second periods arrive late Tuesday. We’ll have to wait and see though.

North Pacific looking a little quiet after next weeks swell producer.  I’ll keep an eye on things, but we could start seeing a slow down in the number of storms and swells pretty soon.

South Pacific Swell Forecast

Keeping an eye on a couple more pulses of southern hemi for the second half of next week. Most of the energy is coming from a series of systems south of the Pitcairn Islands.

The next pulse after this weekend is due next Wednesday, followed by another possibly next weekend. Stay tuned.

Next long-range forecast expected for Monday the 23rd.  

Austin Gendron
Surf Forecaster