S swell due for the end of the week!

No Comments
Austin Gendron
(Tuesday) 8.14.18

Short Range Surf Forecast Overview

Easter Island swell arrives late Wednesday and looks like its going to build to a pretty solid peak Friday/Saturday and then lingering through the end of the weekend.  Unfortunately beyond that… not a whole lot to look forward to…  Read more for details.

Get the live Southern California Buoy Forecast graph here - http://solspot.com/buoy/oceanside-offshore/forecast.

There’s a nice little mix of swell in the water right now, and with the tide right some spots are seeing waist to chest high surf with bigger sets at standouts in the chest to head high+ range even.  The swell mix is supposed to settle a little through the day Wednesday, but not for long.

Large fetch south of Easter Island last week produced a solid pulse of S (180-190) swell that should be arriving late Wednesday, building through Thursday and peaking Friday.  The swell should hold size through Saturday morning, before easing through the end of the weekend.  The original storm had a well angled fetch, meaning consistency and solid 3-4 foot swell with long periods in the 15 to 16 second range.  Surfwise that’s going to mean wave heights building into the chest to head high+ range mid to late Thursday.  Friday wave heights could build into the head high to overhead+ range at standouts., with magnets seeing bigger sets occasionally.  Surf should hold through Saturday morning, then begin to slowly ease through the weekend… lingering through the first half of next week.

Here’s what to expect on a day-to-day basis this week:

Tuesday the 14th a little boost to the mix of southern hemi and wind swell should mean a few more waist to chest high+ waves at standouts.

Wednesday the 15th swell mix holds through the morning, could ease a little late.  Watching for new S to start creeping in late.

Thursday the 16th S swell builds.  Wave heights potentially in the chest to head high+ range late.  Swampy high mid afternoon.

Friday the 17th Easter Island swell builds to a peak mid to late in the day with surf ranging from knee to chest high in the more sheltered areas to chest to overhead+ or bigger at standouts and magnets.  Keep an eye on swampy high late afternoon

Saturday the 18th swell should hold size through the morning before starting to slowly ease late.

Sunday the 19th surf lingers through the end of the weekend.

Monday the 13th swell continues to slowly back off.

Tropical Overview

Tropics are active with TD 14-E, but its not looking like much of a swell maker.

Current forecast is for the storm to strengthen, but its on a mostly westward track.  By the weekend it could become a hurricane, but again… only starts to take a slight NW turn towards Hawaii.  That’s not conducive to sending tropical swell towards California unfortunately.

Long-Range Surf and Swell Forecast

North Pacific Swell Forecast

North Pacific Swell Forecast is looking quiet for the time being

South Pacific Swell Forecast

Long-range models quiet down a bit.  That could change, but for the time being it only looks like smaller southern hemi swell mix (waist high max) as far out as I can see.  When something changes I’ll be back with updates.  Stay tuned

Austin Gendron
Surf Forecaster