solid SSW due this weekend

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Austin Gendron
(Monday) 6.4.18

Short Range Surf Forecast Overview

SW (220-230) from the weekend will be overlapped by another small pulse Wednesday.  Wind swell is expected to build a little bit through the end of the week, and then solid SSW (190-205) fills in over the weekend.  Read more for details.

Get the live Southern California Buoy Forecast graph here - http://solspot.com/buoy/oceanside-offshore/forecast.

Surfwise the overlapping SW pulses in the water will help maintain playful knee to waist high+ maybe chest high waves through the end of the work week.  A little additional windswell picking up over the next couple of days as a weak trough of low pressure pushes onshore through Wednesday.

Saturday afternoon we’re expecting a new SSW (190-205) swell to arrive.  This is from a large system that has been pushing away from the building ice shelf near Antarctica.  Models projected 35-40 foot seas as the system pushed NE on Sunday, and it continues to work its way NE through the start of this week.  The resulting 19 to 20 second swell is going to start showing up Saturday afternoon, building steadily through Sunday, and likely peaking late Sunday into Monday with 3+ feet of deepwater swell.  That’s going to mean waist to head high surf for average breaks, with chest to overhead+ surf for standouts.  Models are hinting at possible wind issues with an eddy spinning up, but its still a little too early to call at this point, so keeping an eye on it.

Here’s what to expect on a day-to-day basis this week:

Monday the 5th southern hemi peaks. Surf should be running knee to chest high at standout southerly exposures

Tuesday the 6th southern hemi starts to ease.  Keeping an eye on new windswell starting to build.

Wednesday the 7th small knee to waist high+ swell mix as new SW fills in

Thursday the 8th southern hemi and windswell mix should mean continued knee to waist high+ keep an eye on the winds as they pick up late.

Friday the 9th southern hemi eases as windswell holds.  It’s possible that there could be some waist to chest high waves at combo spots.

Saturday the 3rd wind swell is qurstionable, but it looks like new SSW starts to build, wave heights could pick up late in the day.

Sunday the 4th SSW continues to build, with standouts seeing more solid and consistent surf through the day.  Wave heights are expected to be running waist to head high+, possibly bigger late in the day.

Tropical Overview

There’s some murmurs down in the tropics this week.  The NHC is showing an area of low pressure that is starting to develop shower and thunderstorm activity.  The system is currently located several hundred miles south of South-Central Mexico.

It’s still way too early to call, but the models are hinting at a potential swell maker with this one.  The system could start to swing north as it moves into the Socal swell window.

like I said, still too early to call, but I will keep an eye on it.  At the earliest we’d be looking at swell from the SSE (165-175) early next week.

Long-Range Surf and Swell Forecast

North Pacific Swell Forecast

North Pacific Swell Forecast is looking quieter for the time being

South Pacific Swell Forecast

Long range models are looking a little funky.  The storm track is breaking up, and the jet stream looks like its going to separate.  The only noticeable swell makers are staying close to the ice shelf.

Some energy could spin off to the north, but the zonal track is not going to help out much.  There’s one smaller system in the mid latitudes that could focus a little more swell toward the region for around the 15th, with the inconsistent S-SSW from the larger system sporadically showing up shortly thereafter.  I’ll have some new information later this week.  Stay tuned

Next long-range forecast expected for Thursday the 7th..  

Austin Gendron
Surf Forecaster