WNW-NW swell mix due through the end of the week.

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Austin Gendron
(Tuesday) 5.8.18

Short Range Surf Forecast Overview

SSW (190-200) peaks Tuesday, easing a little over the next couple days.  We’re looking at some new west swell mix building Wednesday afternoon with potential for some moderate sized swell Thursday and early Friday.  Surf will back off through the weekend, then we’re expecting a fun SSW (190-200) due for the start of next week.  Read more for details.

Get the live Southern California Buoy Forecast graph here - http://solspot.com/buoy/oceanside-offshore/forecast.

Surfwise Wednesday is going to be a little interesting as SSW in the water fades a little bit.  Wave heights are supposed to be running knee to chest high at standouts.  Unfortunately we’re expecting an eddy to spin up, which could mean some texture for southerly exposures south of LA earlier in the day. The second half of the day NW winds are going to increase over the outer waters driving wind swell that will build slowly through the afternoon.

The wind swell expected to pick up Wednesday will peak early Thursday, blending with a mix of medium period swell from a recent system that spun up northeast of Hawaii.  That swell mix looks like it should be enough to generate waist to potentially head high+ surf to the exposed westerly facing breaks in the region.  Surf should hold through Friday morning before easing over the weekend.  For southerly exposures there will be a little mix of inconsistent SW energy in the water as well.

The morning eddy winds look like they are supposed to weaken a little Thursday but could spin up stronger again on Friday.  The afternoon winds look breezy and onshore for many places as well.   Bottom line is conditions might be a little tough despite the increase in swell.  Lighter conditions and cooler temperatures over the weekend.

Early next week we’re expecting a new pulse of SSW (190-200) to arrive.  Forerunners are do mid to late Sunday, and will build to a 3 foot peak on Monday/Tuesday.  That’s going to mean potential for waist to head high+ surf at standout southerly exposures.  It feels like the models have been under calling this one, so some southerly magnets and standouts could see bigger sets, but we’ll have to wait and see.

Here’s what to expect on a day-to-day basis this week:

Tuesday the 8th southern hemi continues to build. Standouts could be seeing knee to waist high+ surf possibly chest high at standouts.

Wednesday the 9th keeping an eye on increasing wind swell and long-period WNW-NW as well as some southern hemi peaks.  Wave heights should be running knee to chest high at standouts

Thursday the 10th WNW-NW swell mix peaks. Wave heights expected to be waist to head high+ keep an eye on the winds

Friday the 11th swell mix holds its peak in the waist to head high+ range early.  Eddy winds possible again.  Surf starts to ease through the day.

Saturday the 12th surf backs off into the knee to chest high range

Sunday the 13th smaller knee to chest high surf.  keeping an eye on new SSW arriving mid to late in the day

Monday the 14th southern hemi builds to a peak. Surf should be running waist to head high+ at standout southerly exposures

Tropical Overview

Nothing in the tropics

Long-Range Surf and Swell Forecast

North Pacific Swell Forecast

North Pacific Swell Forecast is looking quieter for the time being

South Pacific Swell Forecast

The long-range forecast for the Southern Hemisphere continues to look pretty decent.  We’re still expecting some sneaky long-period SW (210-220) for around the 17th.  The large system near New Zealand is currently kicking up 40+ seas.  unfortunately much of the swell is hidden behind the Tahitian swell shadow.

Beyond that the models continue to show a fairly active pattern, as the storm track starts to push more west, generating a series of larger fetches south of Tahiti and French Polynesia.  It’s still too early to call, but we could be looking at better SSW-SW (200-210) for around the 23rd.

Next long-range forecast expected for Thursday the 10th..  

Austin Gendron
Surf Forecaster

  • Dude

    Cmon! We read your stuff! Dont bail on us