Cold front gets ready to serve up some more onshore winds and maybe some drizzle

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Adam Wright
(Monday) 4.6.15

Forecast Overview

Tuesday is not looking like much of a surf day. We have a new cold front pushing down the coast, which will drive in stronger onshore winds and possibly even hit us with a little rain before it clears the region. There may be a few pockets of light winds in the morning, if the front stalls out…but don’t expect them to last very long.

The Swell

We will have a mixed up blend of inconsistent SSW-SW swell (190-220) and some short-period WNW-NW windswell (285-300) on Tuesday. The wind swell will actually dip down slightly in the morning and then build up again as more westerly winds move over Socal in the afternoon. The southern hemi swell will stay steady throughout the day.

The Surf

While there is a lot of weather and winds moving over and around the region it doesn’t look like there is going to be all that much surf. Mostly we will be working with the semi-inconsistent SSW-SW pulse crossed up by the much shorter-period WNW-NW windswell. Sizewise we can expect the average spots to hold around knee-waist high during the morning low tides. The standout breaks will be more consistently in the knee-waist high+ range with a few chest-shoulder high waves showing in the morning during the cleanest conditions and the better tides. We may see buoys go up as windswell increases in the afternoon but how much of that will reach our beaches in rideable form is questionable at best.

Get more details on how this swell will affect your favorite spots in the Surf Region Forecasts:

The Weather

Cloudy skies, some areas of fog, and eventually scattered showers will move through the region on Tuesday. Looks like winds will be a little mixed up for the morning with most beaches seeing some sort of variable-onshore flow around 5-8 knots. There will be some lighter winds showing at the more protected areas during the first part of the morning, but how clean they will actually be will depend on the orientation of the beach and the track, intensity, and duration of the approaching front. Look for most areas to have increasing W-SW winds in the 10-14 knot range by the afternoon.

The Skinny

Tuesday is looking a little sketchy surfwise…even if we were looking at clean conditions there isn’t a ton of swell in the water and what is showing is either very steep in swell direction (like the NW energy) or has been chewed up by the SPAC island shadow (like the SSW-SW) on the way to our beaches. Add in the cold front, chance of rain, and steady onshore winds and we are going to see pretty poor shape for most of the more exposed beaches. Again there may be a few slightly better pockets hiding out in each of our regions but with the winds switching around and the cold front pivoting over Socal I don’t expect them to remain all that clean (or for the winds to stay down) for very long.

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