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Posts Tagged ‘Ocean Science 101’

South Pacific Island Shadowing

South Pacific Island Shadowing

South Pacific Island Shadowing occurs for Southern California when we get SW swells that are coming in from a 205- to 220-degree swell angle. This shadowing process can greatly effect the size and consistency of a SW swell and is generally responsible for turning what should have been a great swell event into a mediocre (and sometimes very frustrating) one.

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I noticed the winds have been coming up pretty early in the North OC area. Is this just typical spring-type conditions?

Uburoi Asked: Hey Adam, I noticed the winds have been coming up pretty early – around 9 or so in the North OC area. Is this just typical spring-type conditions (not staying glassy for very long) or is it the heat in the inland and the sea breeze trying to cool it off? Do you [...]

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How are waves, swell, and surf made?

How are waves, swell, and surf made?

Why learn about ocean waves? The answer is pretty simple if you spend a couple of minutes thinking about it. Personally I think that you become a better surfer, and a better waterman, if you get in tune with the ocean, the weather, and the processes that create the conditions that we, as surfers, are looking for.

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How our surf is made (Part 3: Characteristics of swells)

How our surf is made (Part 3: Characteristics of swells)

Swell The swell stage of a wind wave life-cycle occurs both in the generation phase and the swell phase (duh Adam), which is why the surf gets big when a storm or heavy winds move right over your beach. Usually though the swell phase occurs when the energy of a storm moves away from the [...]

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How our surf is made (Part 2: Wave Creation and Swell Generation)

How our surf is made (Part 2: Wave Creation and Swell Generation)

For surfing wind waves are the end-all be-all of the sport. Without wind waves there would be no surfing at all…so everything else like conditions, tides, beach shape, it is all just window dressing.

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