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Monterey County
Swell Models and Forecast Charts



*click chart to view animation

Monterey Bay Swell Heights

In the simplest of terms this chart shows us the forecast swell-heights for our near-shore regions along the coast. The CDIP (Coastal Data Imaging Platform) forecast gives us a 90-hour window into the future with the data broken out into 6-hour increments, showing us how big the swell will be as it moves into your region. It is important to note that this is a “swell forecast” and NOT a “breaking wave height forecast” (breaking waves are the kind of waves we ride). This forecast, which is created using a combination of NOAA’s WavewatchIII swell model and CDIP’s specialized algorithms, take into account the interaction of the incoming swell’s energy and the sea floor (a process called shoaling, which is related to terms like swell refraction and swell shadowing) and allows this forecast to anticipate how a swell is affected as it moves into different water depths. Why does that matter to us? Well with all the nearshore islands, sea mounts, and undersea canyons peppering the coast, it is extremely helpful to see how much energy is being directed toward your region. Most times there may only be a partial change but in some specialized cases your spot may be a focal point for an incoming swell making it bigger and more consistent than other parts of the beach or worse it might not get any energy at all.

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North Pacific Swell Periods

The SWELL PERIOD FORECAST CHART show us a full 7-day forecast of the PEAK WAVE PERIODS. Wave periods are a different way of measuring and tracking wave energy. Generally stormy seas/swells die down quickly as they leave the area of the winds that generated them and so the PEAK WAVE PERIODS charts allow you to follow the swell as it leaves the storm and track it, hopefully to your destination. If you use these charts along with the SIGNIFCANT SWELL HEIGHT charts you will be able to find storms and track swells the produce anywhere in the world...more information

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North Pacific Wave Heights

THE SIGNIFICANT SWELL HEIGHT FORECAST CHARTS show us a full 7-day forecast of significant swell and sea heights occurring worldwide. The charts are built using a combination of weather models that predict wind fetch occurring strength at sea-level. These charts are best viewed in very large scale sizes, such as ocean basins, where you can see the scope, direction and intensity of storm systems as they move through your swell windows...more information

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North Pacific Winds

The WIND Forecast is a combination of several levels of data…Sea Level Pressure (represented by the Isobars lines), Dominant Wind Directions (represented by the small black arrows), and Wind Speeds (that are represented by the color underneath the other two data sets). These large-scale winds are useful for tracking a storm’s strength and also keeping an eye on weather and wind conditions at your location so you can score when swell arrives...more information

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South Pacific Swell Periods

The SWELL PERIOD FORECAST CHART show us a full 7-day forecast of the PEAK WAVE PERIODS. Wave periods are a different way of measuring and tracking wave energy. Generally stormy seas/swells die down quickly as they leave the area of the winds that generated them and so the PEAK WAVE PERIODS charts allow you to follow the swell as it leaves the storm and track it, hopefully to your destination. If you use these charts along with the SIGNIFCANT SWELL HEIGHT charts you will be able to find storms and track swells the produce anywhere in the world...more information

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South Pacific Wave Heights

THE SIGNIFICANT SWELL HEIGHT FORECAST CHARTS show us a full 7-day forecast of significant swell and sea heights occurring worldwide. The charts are built using a combination of weather models that predict wind fetch occurring strength at sea-level. These charts are best viewed in very large scale sizes, such as ocean basins, where you can see the scope, direction and intensity of storm systems as they move through your swell windows...more information

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South Pacific Winds

The WIND Forecast is a combination of several levels of data…Sea Level Pressure (represented by the Isobars lines), Dominant Wind Directions (represented by the small black arrows), and Wind Speeds (that are represented by the color underneath the other two data sets). These large-scale winds are useful for tracking a storm’s strength and also keeping an eye on weather and wind conditions at your location so you can score when swell arrives...more information

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